Other than that, everything about the revolver was in good working order. The revolver in question had little original finish remaining, and the trigger would not reset. We had only seen pictures of these in books and never on an actual Iver Johnson and knew they were on the rare side. What caught our eye on this one was the set of New Model Target Grips installed. They supply several screw lengths, but we still had to cut one of the screws by 2mm to fit. We remedied this with a metal file to bring the pin back into shape. After thoroughly cleaning the glue from the frame we saw that the grip retaining pin on the right-hand side was flared and would not let the grip fit properly. Then we noticed that the grip screw through the grip was stacked with a bunch of steel and copper washers. A little prying with a screwdriver and tapping with a plastic hammer seemed to remedy this. After removing the grip screw, we noticed that the panel would not come off. The grip was glued or epoxied to the frame. That's what we thought going into this, but the Bubba who repaired this one made the task not so simple. Can i sue my ex for false allegations replacement grip on this example had been carved out of a piece of wood and was honestly a reasonably good fit. The plastic grips were notorious for cracking due to over tightening of the screw or simply banging into things while being carried. As is common with a lot of top break revolvers, the right grip had been replaced. Ours is an early model as it uses a flat mainspring as opposed to a coil spring. Quality is the same as Iver Johnson revolvers of the same period. The main difference between an Iver Johnson model and a U. In case you are not familiar with the name, U.
#IVER JOHNSON SHOTGUN SERIAL NUMBER DATABASE FULL#
Depending on the model or type of firearm, this can vary between simple fixes to get it running again to an almost full restoration.